Aroids at Home: The Modern Care Guide

(Monstera, Pothos/Devil’s Ivy, Philodendron, Syngonium — plus Anthuriums)

If you’ve got a Monstera, Devil’s Ivy / Pothos (Epipremnum), Philodendron, or Syngonium at home… congrats. You’re officially living with aroids.

They’re the modern indoor plant obsession for a reason: bold leaves, quick growth, and (once you crack the basics) they’re surprisingly low drama. The one catch? Aroids are root-zone sensitive. They’ll tolerate a missed watering… but they won’t quietly tolerate soggy mix for weeks on end.

So rather than chasing hacks, let’s do this the Plant Runner way:

Light → Water → Mix → Feed.
Nail those four and your aroids stop being “mystery plants” and start being reliably lush.

What even is an “aroid”?

“Aroid” is the catch-all name for plants in the Araceae family — a big group of tropical plants that tend to love:

• Bright light (more than most people think)
• Consistent moisture (not constant wetness)
• Airy, breathable roots (this one is the biggie)

In everyday Aussie homes, the most common aroids you’ll run into are:

• Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)
• Pothos / Devil’s Ivy (Epipremnum species and hybrids)
• Philodendron (heaps of species + hybrids)
• Syngonium / Arrowhead Vine (Syngonium species)

And then there’s Anthurium — the “plus one” aroid:

• Flowering anthuriums (tougher, super common), and
• Velvet-leaf anthuriums (collectible, a bit fussier about stability).

Different personalities… same core needs: good light, a steady watering rhythm, and a root zone that can breathe.

Aroid Care Cheat Sheet (save this bit)

If you just want the “tell me what to do” version, here it is. Use this as your baseline, then adjust based on your home’s light + temperature.

Quick check: If your aroid is “doing nothing”, look at light first. If it’s yellowing, look at mix + watering first.

The Modern Aroid Rule: Light → Water → Mix → Feed

1) Light: the real growth lever

If you only upgrade one thing for your aroids, make it light.

The goal (in real-life terms)

Aim for bright light where your plant sits — usually:

• Within 0.5–2 metres of a bright window, or
• Right up near a window with sheer curtain / filtered light.

Good news: many aroids can handle a bit of gentle direct sun (especially morning sun) if you acclimate them slowly. The thing to avoid is blasting a previously low-light plant with harsh midday sun overnight.

Quick checks (no tech needed)

• If your plant can “see” a bright sky (not just a dark corner), you’re in the right zone.
• If it’s throwing tiny leaves, long gaps between nodes, or slow growth, it’s usually light before anything else.

Aroid-specific notes

• Monstera: more light = bigger leaves + better fenestrations (splits).
• Epipremnum (Pothos): brighter light = faster growth + stronger variegation.
• Philodendron: climbers want brighter light to size up.
• Syngonium: brighter light keeps growth compact and colours stronger; low light = stretchy stems.
• Anthurium: bright light helps, but avoid harsh direct midday sun on the leaves.

Plant Runner tip: If you move a plant closer to the window, do it gradually over a week or two. Leaves need time to adapt.

2) Water: consistency beats frequency

Aroids don’t want “a little bit often.” They want a proper drink… then time for the root zone to breathe.

The simple rule

Water when the top few centimetres of the mix has dried — then water thoroughly so it runs out the bottom.

One important nuance (especially for big pots)

If your plant is in a larger pot, the top can dry while the bottom stays wet. Do a quick deeper check with a finger, skewer, or chopstick — you want the root zone drying down, not just the surface crust.

What “too wet” looks like (early signs)

• Yellowing lower leaves
• Soft stems / droopy look that doesn’t improve after watering
• Mix staying dark and damp for ages

What “too dry” looks like

• Leaf curl (especially on Syngonium and some Philodendrons)
• Crispy edges (more common on Anthuriums)
• Drooping that quickly improves after a full watering

Plant Runner tip: Aroids love a chunky mix because it lets you water properly without suffocating roots. If you’re constantly scared of overwatering, it’s usually your mix asking for help.

3) Mix: the secret to happy roots (and fewer yellow leaves)

This is the part most people don’t realise: aroids aren’t “fussy”… they’re oxygen addicts.

In nature, many aroids grow in airy organic debris — not dense, waterlogged potting mix. Indoors, that translates to one thing:

Your mix matters as much as your watering.

What a good aroid mix does

• Drains freely but still holds moisture
• Keeps airflow around roots (less rot risk)
• Supports strong root growth = better top growth

A quick “feel test”

• You should see and feel chunky structure (not smooth, peat-y sludge).
• When you water, it should run through within seconds, not sit on top like a puddle.
• After watering, the mix should feel moist but airy, not heavy and compacted.

Important reality: nursery mix

Most store-bought aroids arrive in peat-heavy nursery mix designed for greenhouse production — which often holds water for a long time in a home. If your aroid suddenly yellows after bringing it home, it’s not you “doing something wrong”… it’s usually the plant adjusting to new light + new drying times.

If you’re using our Aroid Mix

Our Aroid Mix is built for that sweet spot: airy roots + steady moisture. It’s the easiest way to stop fighting your pot and start letting your aroids do their thing.

Repot cue: If your plant dries weirdly fast or stays wet forever, it’s often mix breakdown (or root congestion) rather than you “watering wrong”.

4) Feed: turn “surviving” into “thriving”

Feeding is the difference between “it’s alive” and “it’s putting out big, glossy, intentional-looking leaves.”

The simple approach

Feed during active growth (usually spring/summer, or year-round if you’ve got warm temps + good light).

• Monthly is a great baseline for most homes.
• If you’ve got strong light and steady watering, you can often feed more often at a lower dose during growth season.

If our Aroid Fertiliser is live

That’s your targeted option for leafy growth and root support — built for the way aroids actually behave indoors. (No overcomplicating, no weird “burnt leaf” panic.)

If it’s not live yet

No stress — keep your current feeding routine and remember: light + mix first, feeding second. Fertiliser won’t fix low light or soggy roots, but it will help once the basics are locked.

The “Common Failure Patterns” (aka: diagnose your aroid in 30 seconds)

• Yellow leaves + wet mix → root zone needs more oxygen (mix too dense, pot staying wet too long, or watering too frequent for the light)
• Small leaves / long gaps between leaves → light is the limiter (move closer to the window)
• Crispy edges → environment swings (drafts, heater/AC blasts, inconsistent watering; Anthuriums feel this most)
• No Monstera splits → usually light + maturity (support helps too)

Aroid differences (so you stop treating them all the same)

Monstera

• Wants bright light for big leaves + splits
• Likes support (stake/pole) for mature growth
• Often looks sad from “wet feet” before it ever looks dry

Epipremnum (Pothos / Devil’s Ivy)

• One of the most forgiving aroids — but still hates soggy mix
• Brighter light = faster growth + stronger variegation
• Great “training wheels” aroid for learning watering + light

Philodendron

• Many are climbers — support helps leaves size up
• Leggy growth usually screams more light
• Still wants an airy mix (dense mix = yellowing + slow growth)

Syngonium (Arrowhead Vine)

• Fast grower when happy — and it’ll tell you quickly when it’s not
• Low light = long, stretchy stems; brighter light keeps it compact
• Loves consistent moisture, but only if the mix stays breathable

Anthurium (the plus one)

• Flowering anthuriums are generally tougher; velvet-leaf types are fussier about stability
• Often prefers steadier moisture (not wet — just consistent)
• Crispy edges usually = drafts / low humidity / watering swings

Leaf hygiene + pests (the unglamorous but very real aroid habit)

Aroids have big leaves. Big leaves catch dust. Dust blocks light. And pests love hiding where you don’t look.

Simple routine

• Give leaves a wipe every 4–8 weeks (more if you’re near a road, reno dust, or you’ve got fans going).
• When you wipe, do a quick pest check: undersides of leaves, new growth points, and along the midrib.

What to look for

• Thrips: silvery scarring, tiny black specks, distorted new leaves
• Spider mites: stippling, fine webbing, dusty-looking leaves that won’t “clean up”
• Mealybugs: fluffy white clusters in joints and leaf bases

If you’re using our Neem Oil Leaf Shine: it’s a great option for regular leaf cleaning and keeping foliage looking (and functioning) its best — just keep it simple and consistent. No need for a full chemistry set.

The modern aroid routine (keep it simple)

If you want a set-and-forget rhythm:

1. Check light (weekly glance): is it bright enough where it sits?
2. Water when the top starts drying (and check deeper in bigger pots)
3. Mix that stays airy (chunky structure is your insurance policy)
4. Feed in growth season (monthly baseline; more often at lower dose if conditions are strong)

No guilt. No perfection. Just plants that look like you’ve got your life together.

Troubleshooting (quick answers)

“My aroid has yellow leaves”

Most common causes:

• Mix staying wet too long (dense mix / poor drainage / low light + watering too often)
• Plant adjusting from nursery conditions to home drying times
• Natural shedding of an older leaf (one at a time is usually fine)

Do this: Check how long the mix stays damp in the root zone. If it’s wet for days and days, fix mix + light first, then adjust watering.

“Droopy leaves”

• If the mix is dry: water thoroughly.
• If the mix is wet: don’t water again — increase light/airflow and consider repotting if it stays wet for ages.

“Small new leaves / slow growth”

Usually light, sometimes feeding, occasionally roots are cramped.

Do this: Move closer to brighter light, then feed during growth season. Repot if rootbound or the mix has broken down.

“Brown crispy edges”

Often inconsistent moisture, low humidity, or hot/cold drafts (Anthuriums feel this most).

Do this: Stabilise watering (deep, then dry slightly), keep away from heater/AC blasts, and aim for steadier conditions.

“No growth in winter”

Totally normal if light drops and temps cool.

Do this: Ease up on water, keep the mix airy, and don’t force-feed a plant that isn’t actively growing.

“My plant dropped leaves after I moved it”

Also normal. Aroids can sulk after a big change in light, temperature, or airflow.

Do this: Choose the best spot you can, then keep conditions steady for a few weeks. Consistency beats constantly “fixing” it.

The Plant Runner shortcut 

If you want the simplest upgrade with the biggest impact on aroids:

• Aroid Mix → for that airy-root, steady-moisture zone aroids love
• Aroid Fertiliser → for reliable leafy growth support without overcomplicating it

And if you take nothing else from this guide, take this:

Aroids don’t need perfection — they need a good root zone and good light. Everything gets easier after that.

Aroid Care FAQs