Best Indoor Plants for Apartments: It's Not the Apartment, It's the Light
Not every plant needs to be a statement piece. Some of the best indoor plants we've ever owned are the small ones — the plants that sit happily on a...
During active growth — when your plant is actively putting out new leaves — feed every second watering at 2 mL/L. In cooler months when growth slows, pull back to every third or fourth watering, or drop to 1 mL/L. If your plants are still pushing out new growth in winter, you can keep the regular rate — just follow what the plant is doing.
Indoor Plant Food is an all-rounder — great across a wide range of houseplants. Aroid Food is purpose-built for aroids: urea-free, nitrate-based, with a lower phosphorus ratio and added calcium and magnesium. If you're growing a lot of chunky-mix aroids, Aroid Food gives you a more targeted option.
Urea is a common nitrogen source in liquid fertilisers, but it needs to be converted by soil microbes before plants can use it. In chunky aroid mixes with limited microbial activity, that conversion can be slow and inconsistent. Nitrate-based nitrogen skips that step — it's more directly available, which means more reliable feeding results.
The concentrate is acidic to keep calcium and micronutrients stable in the bottle (they can precipitate out at higher pH). Once you dilute it to 2 mL/L, the solution is much gentler and actually works well with the slightly alkaline tap water common across most Australian cities. At the recommended dilution rate, the acidity of the concentrate isn't something you need to worry about.
Yes — start at 1 mL/L with each water change during active growth. Because passive hydro has less buffering than potting mix, it's worth starting low, refreshing the reservoir regularly, and watching for signs of salt build-up or leaf-tip burn before increasing the rate.
Absolutely. The lower phosphorus ratio makes it best suited to foliage-focused plants rather than flowering ones, but most leafy indoor plants will do well on it. If you're after a more general-purpose fertiliser, our Indoor Plant Food is the better fit.
Possibly, yes. Pale or distorted new growth can sometimes point to calcium, magnesium or micronutrient availability issues — especially in chunky mixes, fast-draining pots, or higher-pH tap water areas. Aroid Food is designed to support those nutrients. If the problem keeps happening, it's also worth checking light, watering consistency and root health — feeding is only one piece.
Indoor Plant Food is dosed at 1 mL/L. Aroid Food is 2 mL/L — but the formula is more dilute and balanced differently by design, so the end nutrient delivery is in the right range for aroids. Don't double-dose thinking more is better; the 2 mL/L rate is the sweet spot.
5 years from date of manufacture when stored out of direct sunlight.
We'd recommend sticking to soil application for Aroid Food. The calcium content can leave residue on leaves, which is the opposite of what you're after. For leaf cleaning and shine, our Neem Oil Leaf Shine is the better fit.
Featured Post
Every time your Monstera, Philodendron, or Anthurium pushes out a new leaf, it’s giving you a snapshot of everything that’s been happening behind the scenes — the light it’s been getting, the water, the nutrients available at the roots. It’s the most honest feedback loop in plant care. The catch is knowing how to read it.
Featured Post
Aroids are some of the most rewarding indoor plants to grow. Monsteras, Philodendrons, Anthuriums, Syngoniums and Epipremnums all bring something different, but they tend to have a few things in common: they like bright conditions, they hate sitting in stale wet mix, and they respond well when the foundations are right.
Featured Post
You’ve met them already. The Monstera with windows like someone took a hole punch to a leaf. The Philodendron that refuses to stay put. The Anthurium that looks hand-drawn, velvet and vein and drama. These are aroids—plants from the family Araceae—and they’ve been sneaking into lounges and offices and kitchens for years, acting casual while doing very specific botanical things.
Not every plant needs to be a statement piece. Some of the best indoor plants we've ever owned are the small ones — the plants that sit happily on a...
Humidity might be one of the most over-discussed topics in indoor plant care. Scroll through any plant forum and you'll find people blaming low humidity for every brown leaf tip,...
Search “best plants for the bedroom” and you’ll get the same dozen names every time. Snake plant, peace lily, pothos, on rotation. The lists aren’t wrong, exactly. They’re just answering...
If you ask ten people what potting mix is for, most will say "to hold the plant up." Fair enough — it does. But if that was the whole job,...
Most indoor plant problems get blamed on watering. Too much, too little, too often, not often enough. And fair enough — watering is the thing we notice and the thing...
If an indoor plant starts looking off, the first instinct is usually to react to the symptom you can see. A yellow leaf gets blamed on watering. Slow growth gets...
Aroids are some of the most rewarding indoor plants to grow. Monsteras, Philodendrons, Anthuriums, Syngoniums and Epipremnums all bring something different, but they tend to have a few things in...
New growth doesn’t lie. Every time your Monstera, Philodendron, or Anthurium pushes out a new leaf, it’s giving you a snapshot of everything that’s been happening behind the scenes —...